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Archive for February, 2009

Easy jQuery fading color menu

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

I’m creating a site for a client and wanted to jazz up the main menu slightly. Right now its just a plain text text that rolls over with a new color. It would be cooler, and just as accessible, if I made that css color fade in and out instead of just “appear”. The HTML, CSS, and JS for this with jQuery is easy as pie.

The HTML is below. Notice all I did is double up on the text in span tags. You can’t “fade” the change of a color style, but you can fade the white text in and out above the black text.

<ul>
     <li><a href=""><span class="white">Sports</span><span class="black">Sports</span></a></li>
     <li><a href=""><span class="white">Concerts</span><span class="black">Concerts</span></a></li>
    <li><a href=""><span class="white">Theater</span><span class="black">Theater</span></a></li>
</ul>

CSS. Position that white span tag absolutely so its above the black, and what you see.

#header ul li {
float:left;
font-size:80%;
font-weight:bold;
margin-top:2px;
text-transform:uppercase;
}
#header ul li a {
color:#fff;
display:block;
height:18px;
padding:3px 15px 0 12px;
text-decoration:none;
}
#header .white {
color:#fff !important;
position:absolute;
}
#header .black {
color:#000 !important;
}

The throw in a line of jQuery to manipulate that absolutely positioned white span to fade in and out above the black for a cool fading effect on hover.

$("#header li ").hover(function(){$(this).find('.white').fadeOut("medium");},function(){$(this).find('.white').fadeIn("medium");});

Facebook integration

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

So I’ve been on Facebook for a while, but I don’t seem to post on there often, even though I “mean” to. I do update my blog fairly frequently though, and crosspost all my photos to Picasa as it automatically pics those up from my home pc.

Since I moved to Wordpress, there seems to be a cool app/plugin “Wordbook” that will take my blog posts and throw them up right on my Facebook wall. Also, I was able to integrate my Picasa account with Facebook as well. Super Nerd. Activate!

Race car is almost back

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

So “RedRum” is definitely less bent then I thought. To be more accurate, I’d have to say, its not bent at all. Trever checked her out, fixed the header, built me some new uprights for when the wheel bearings go out during this season, and gave her a clean bill of health. Seems that when I got hit, the front subframe, which is just bolted to the unibody was the only thing that moved. The unibody didn’t bend, but the subframe just shifted over in its bolts. That was the cause of the front camber being slightly off, and also the crack in the header.

I should pick the car up sometime next week, and next up is the bodywork. I’m going to pull off all the stickers from last season, and clean up the doors some. Then she’s off to Mike at Sentry Auto Body to get the dents fixed. Mike is going to fix the two rear quarter panels and maybe the drivers door as well. Going to also get new front fenders and bumper, and she will literally look good as new.

I’m planning on a new graphics scheme for this season. The back half of the car will continue to be E46 M3 Red, but the front half of the car is getting an overhaul. I’m going to vinyl the hood, fenders, and blend the vinyl into the doors. Also, the front bumper skin will remain factory black. The paint cracks too fast with bumpdrafting, and the black bumper will fit in real well with the fancy vinyl thats going over the rest of the front bodywork :) I’m excited! We might head to Colorado for some late season skiing in March, but if we don’t go, I’m hoping to make a late March date at Carolina Motorsports Park. We’ll see.

Wordpress does not suck

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

So after telling a couple of coworkers that I had my blog on an old blogger.com template, I got this weird look and “you don’t use wordpress.org?” comment. Checking it out for a bit got me interested, and as I played with it, I realized what they were talking about. Wordpress rules!

The longest part of the conversion process was setting up all the 301 redirects for my old URLs to the new ones. The import of my blog feed, the setup of the template and blog was cake, and the admin interface is awesome. Even better, I control all the code through the php templates, so my blog is now proper XHTML where with Blogger service, there was so much invalid blogger code scattered, it wasn’t even funny.

Also, the more I use php, the more I like it. I was always an ASP guy, and with the vBulletin work I do running the RoadRaceAutoX forums, and now setting up Wordpress, I’m finding that php rules.

Canon 40D

Monday, February 16th, 2009

So I pulled the trigger on my upgrade. I’ve used the 350D for over 2 years now. I’m an “ok” amateur and never thought I would need an upgrade. I went the $$$ glass route, as suggested by many peers smarter then I, and it was well worth it. I got some great shots out of my 350D and 70-200L,24-105Ls. Recently, I’ve gotten the gear bug though, and with the used 40Ds coming down so much in price, I finally pulled the trigger.

Here are my impressions of 40D over the 350D for anyone else considering such a move

  • The “feel” of the camera is much better, yet smaller then my 350D + grip combo. The 350 w/o the grip is too small for my hands, but the 40D fits just perfectly.
  • The grip, the buttons, the locations, are just “right on” with this body, compared to being cramped in the 350D. I’ve seen people post that the 350D was a toy compared to the XXD series, and I kinda see what they are saying now.
  • The “click” of shutter sounds better. The 350D has more of a slap, where the motorized up and down of the 40D sounds a lot beefier.Its wierd, but I really like the sound of the 40D shutter.
  • In good light with 100 ISO, I can’t really tell a difference between two “internet sized” shots. At full zoom, you can see a slight detail difference, but there isn’t a huge wow factor in this situation
  • In low light, the difference really kicks in. 1600ISO on the 40D is about equal to 400ISO on the 350D. Its THAT much of a difference. I took a well exposed shot at 1600ISO and it looks excellent. Wow!
  • 6.5fps = Wow. That part is NOT going to suck for taking 1/80th pans of race cars. The keeper ratio was low with the 350D when trying for such low shutter speeds. With the 6.5fps, I’ll be able to nail a 4-5 shot combo of each car, where with the 350D i could get ~2 shots of “in frame” in.
  • Haven’t noticed a huge difference in AF yet, but I haven’t done any AI Servo work with race cars yet. The 40D seems to catch a little faster then I was used to, but its not that much. Then again, most of those were in great light, so the 350D didn’t have much trouble and my amateur self never found the AF lacking with my 350D as I use the center point 99% of the time.

Not saying the 350D is bad. Its certainly a GREAT body, and at current prices ($350 used) its a KILLER deal for someone trying to get into DSLRs. Its just that the 40D really is a great step up and with the improved controls/format/performance allows you to enjoy photography more. I’m sure liking mine, and glad I pulled the trigger finally..

Car in the shop and PBR

Sunday, February 8th, 2009

So my race car is in the shop. Since I’m the DIY type, it doesn’t happen that often, but after the ARRC wreck, I decided to have the car checked out by Trever, who is the one that built it. I looked it over at the house and it doesn’t actually look too bad. The only thing out alignment wise was the right front camber and toe. Looks like the upright got bent. The other 3 wheels where right in sync with each other and not even more a smidgen. The bottom subframe, which was 1/16″ away from the header looks to have maybe moved in the accident, hit the header slightly cracking it, and then moved back. Since thats a $$$ custom header, figured, lets have it fixed by folks that know more then I do.

Once Trever gives the car a thumbs up, I’ll be taking it over to the body shop to have the rear quarter panel dents touched up and sprayed over with red paint. I might take it home inbetween and see how much of the body work I can touch up to save money. We’ll see. Since I need new fenders and a new front bumper cover, I decided to go with a slightly different paint scheme for next season. I’m going to cover the hood and fenders with carbon fiber look vinyl, so I don’t have to paint. And then extend that vinyl into the doors with some kind of design. The front bumper will stay “factory black” as its just easier that way.

Also yesterday was about the nicest day in the last month or so here, so we went out to the dog park with a couple of our friends and out for some beers and pizza. They had $5 PBR pitchers which I couldn’t pass up :) I was actually pleasantly surprised at the taste of PBR being sober, as I usually reserve PBR for the end of the night once I don’t care about what I’m drinking.

Cheap Digital Camber Gauge

Thursday, February 5th, 2009

Update: Read on for the gauge part, but now I’ve finished off the alignment toolkit with a Ryobi self leveling laser. Put that baby in the middle of where the car will be, and use Home Depot $0.59 vinyl floor tiles to get the work area absolutely level before you use the following gauge. With that projecting a horizontal level laser and a ruler at the corners to setup the tiles, you won’t ever have to zero it against the ground anymore (every time you power it off, it goes back to default). I’m within 1/16″ at all 4 corners, with the highest corner getting 0 tiles, and the lowest corner getting 9.

A few years ago I used someone’s “Smart Camber” digital camber gauge. It was awesome! You could zero it on the ground and measure your camber on uneven ground with 0.1 accuracy. I was going to get my own, but the $250 street price kind of discouraged me. Being the DIY type, I decided to make my own.

Take:

  • (1) Digital Level from Sears with 0.1 accuracy which can be found on sale for $35
  • (1) 20in long, 1″ wide, 1/8″ thick piece of steel from Home Depot Racing
  • (2) 1″ long 1/4″ thick metal spacers from HDR
  • (2) Allen head 1.5″ bolts
  • (2) Nuts and washers

Drill a hole on one end of the sheetmetal, then 3 holes for 15, 16 and 17″ wheels on the other end. Put in the bolts into the spacers, through the sheetmetal and throw a washer/nut on the other end. The pictures at the end of the post show what I’m talking about. The level attaches to the sheetmetal and is very sturdy as it has a nice big magnet in it.

edit: This part is no longer necessary if you do the above laser/floor tile leveling of your surface. Only if you are doing this on uneven ground. To do an alignment, just set the gauge on the ground in front of your tire and level out to 0 with the “zero” button.

Then place against your wheel and do a tiny bit of math. 88 degrees on the gauge = -2 degrees camber. Easy, accurate to 0.1, and under $40 including all materials. It’s been working great the last season and between this, and stringing up the car for toe, I can do pro alignments in the garage or the pits whenever I please. After the lift, the Jeep went to the shop for an alignment, so I got to verify the accuracy of the gauge and it matched their Hunter machine.

I’ve thought about making a better mount for the level, which would allow me to zero out the gauge vertically, but this has been working so well, I never bothered. If someone comes up with something better, send me a note.